eastern sierra

Spring Ski Mountaineering With Mount Dana in the Background

There are a number of organizations in the Eastern Sierra that strive to maintain the primitive, untouched beauty of this natural wonderland. These include the Eastern Sierra Land Trust (http://easternsierralandtrust.org), Friends of the Inyo (http://www.friendsoftheinyo.org), the Andrea Lawrence Institute for Mountains and Rivers (http://www.alimar.org), the Eastern Sierra Institute for Collaborative Education (http://www.esice.org), Mono Council for the Arts (http://www.mammothartguild.com) and the Eastern Sierra Interpretive Association Bookstore managed by Inyo National Forest (http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo/maps/esia). All of the above sites have further information about living in the Eastern Sierra and how individuals can help preserve this unique part of California. This area was a natural choice as a setting for the books that I am writing. It is easy to lose oneself here—in fact, people who are drawn to live in this region tend to be very self sufficient. You need to be. The summers, while heartbreakingly lovely with meadows awash in colorful wildflowers, are painfully short. The temperature starts dropping in late September and snow can come at any time. When it snows after the middle of October the snow stays. It isn’t unusual for there to be twenty foot drifts around my home by mid December. And, we’ve lived through storms where it snowed for many days, dumping over six feet from a single storm. Bob and I have cross country skied to the store with backpacks—on more than one occasion—to load up on essentials because it was impossible to get a car out of the garage. But then the sun comes out and the plows get to work and at least the arterials are cleared. Short days, and cold temperatures, though, mean that the snow doesn’t melt until sometime in May. And, there have been years when we had ten foot drifts around the house well into June.

Living in the Eastern Sierra definitely self selects for the hardy. With few local resources, we find that we generally shop for friends when one of us makes the two hour trek to the Carson City area. There’s almost a pioneer spirit—with people helping one another—that I’ve not found in more urban areas. And, for the first time in my adult life, I’m on a first name basis with the UPS and Fed Ex drivers. I actually like shopping online. It saves a lot of time. Then, the next time I see Joe (the UPS guy) he’s always sure to ask me something like, “Hey, how’d you like that inversion table?” Yup—not much privacy here. But that seems to be okay.

I think I’d like to toss in a couple of peak route descriptions at this point. Just re-read the caveat on the home page, please. Climbing is dangerous. You could be hurt—or killed. Always pay close attention, take the ten essentials, wear a helmet, watch the weather closely, and be especially careful coming down. Eighty percent of climbing accidents happen while climbers are descending. For one thing, we are tired and feeling pleased that we made the summit. So, the vigilance that’s necessary until you’re actually back in that car relaxes just a bit. Do not let that happen. So long as you are on a mountain, you have to be one-hundred percent present. I have a mantra—well, two actually. On the way up, I either count or I let the words “climbing safely” flow through my mind over and over. On the way down, that changes slightly to “descending safely”. Ask the universe for what you want and need. If you think about falling, even to telling yourself, “Now don’t fall,” I believe you open the door to that possibility.

Mount Banner Via Lake Catherine:
This is the easiest route up Mount Banner. Take either High Trail or River Trail out of Agnew Meadows to Thousand Island Lake—about a ten-mile trek. Once at the Lake, pass it on its NNW shore. It’s a long lake, so it takes quite awhile. There is a good use trail next to the lake from all the foot traffic in the area. Once past the lake, begin your ascent to North Glacier Pass. It is the low point to the right of the east face of Mount Banner. Again, there is a good use trail up most of North Glacier Pass; though you may lose it from time to time in the talus. After cresting the pass notice how lovely Lake Catherine is directly below you. Turn left and work your way around through talus and grassy ledges to the Catherine Glacier. Climb the glacier (you may need crampons—depends on how firm the snow is—and an axe). At the top of the glacier, climb well delineated use trails the remaining 900 feet or so to the summit of Mount Banner.

At that point, you have at least two additional choices. If you’re comfortable with third class climbing, you can also climb Mount Ritter from the Ritter-Banner col. Or, if you have your full pack with you, you can descend the Ritter-Banner couloir opposite to the Catherine Glacier. This will drop you into the Lake Ediza drainage. Or, if you set up a camp somewhere between the Catherine Glacier and Thousand Island Lakes, you’d want to return there.

Mount Ritter Via the Southeast Glacier:
This is the easiest route up Mount Ritter. Take the Shadow Lake Trail out of Agnew Meadows. Follow it about three miles to Shadow Lake. Pass the lake and turn right on the John Muir Trail. Follow this to Lake Ediza. Watch carefully, just before the lake the trail splits. You want to take the climber’s trail to the right. It passes Lake Ediza on its northern shore. A talus field bands this side of the lake. Past the talus, follow a good use trail up valley towards the notch between Ritter and Banner. It is about seven miles to Lake Ediza and another two miles or so to the base of the cirque where the real climbing begins. Cross the water at the head of the cirque. This varies from trivial to difficult depending on the season. Look for the use trail heading up the talus. There is a short bit of third class over wet, grassy ledges that can be frozen (and treacherous) early or late in the day. Crest the ledges and work your way up more granite ledges to Ritter’s southeast glacier. Crampons and an axe are useful here, particularly when the snow is firm. Continue up to the head of the cirque before turning right. There is a particularly steep section here that will probably be snow free which is too bad because it consists of really loose talus. Follow use trails in the talus until you come out onto a broad plateau. From there it is another 700 feet or so of easy climbing to the summit. Be sure to build yourself a cairn to mark the route for your descent. Follow any number of good use trails to the summit.

Mount Davis:
Follow the directions for Mount Banner. After cresting North Glacier Pass, descend to the right almost down to Lake Catherine. Turn right at this point and climb a gentle valley that goes mostly north and slightly west. Continue heading straight. The route climbs and descends a bit. After some time, you will see Mount Davis. It is probably about two miles from Lake Catherine. This route is easiest early season when snow covers much of the talus. After the initial gentle valley, much of the rest of this route consists of talus blocks until just before the summit pyramid when the blocks get nicer (e.g. small).

Mount Morrison:
Drive to Convict Lake. Walk to the left around the lake and ascend the brush slope to the south. It crests at a dirt road and parking area that rarely has cars since no one knows how to find it. (We did find it with some difficulty one day. It cuts about 700 feet of climbing off your route.) Turn right and follow the road—which peters out almost instantly—into a valley that also goes to the south. Follow this valley for quite awhile. A use trails wends in and out of talus and vegetation. After a time, you will see a small tarn to your left. If you look closely, there is a good climbers’ trail heading upwards to your right –e.g. west. It climbs steeply and, near the summit, it is frequently lost in talus fields. Nonetheless, the route is an obvious one.

That’s enough for now. If you’d like climbing directions to most any Sierra peak, just email me. I will add more route descriptions to this section over time, so be sure to check back.

THE EASTERN SIERRA